Allen's allures...

I am apparently one of those dimwits who would even agree to waste time on something as insubstantial as counting Mango trees when his dear friend is buried in eating the delicious Mangoes. This ploy is not as unthinking as it seems on surface. While counting I intently watch his face and if it beams on first bite, I just leave my sham-counting to join him in eating. That’s the upside of having good and gullible friends. Do I really do that? NO. Because I have none so. I just fancy!

But I did thus on my maiden visit to Allen’s kitchen and it reaped the expected. Until some years ago I was blissfully unfamiliar with the legend surrounding this splendid eatery and naively drove past it time and again during my visits to Kolkata. My first visit, admittedly a circumspect one, was with a fellow food-lover who unsuspectingly agreed to order for just one Prawn-cutlet first while I agreed to watch him eating.

Then came the Epiphany! With the first bite he abruptly turned silent and began waving hands like a seasoned Symphony Conductor…perhaps I heard the symphony too in successive crackles. That was THE momentous cue! I forthwith ordered the jumbo Prawn Cutlet and forgot the world…and was hurled to heaven! Allen’s secret lay in its simplicity [quite characteristic of North Kolkata] and perhaps an unbending attitude – they never swerved from what they were best at – something perhaps stemming from a deep understanding of Kolkata psyche. What I eventually discovered inside the ghee fried veneer were the soft and juicy prawns - filled generously, slowly and happily melting in the mouth. I chomped it to nothingness! The taste made us order for Chicken Kabiraji Cutlet (also fried in Ghee). Chicken Kabiraji Cutlet, an absolute masterpiece on its own merits, was found to have been prepared with as much love and culinary sincerity - again filled generously with chicken shreds. What came on the heels was Mutton steak, an accidental order and definitely a hidden gem – a healthy mutton patty covered in pepper sauce. How could such a simple dish taste so profound? Allen’s is one of that dwindling lot of eateries that never laboured on expanding their menu and instead clung to those delicacies they were widely admired for. I left the joint immediately after the patty disappeared from my plate - before the gobbling glutton could surface subduing the discriminating gourmet. One notable point – Allen’s serve the fries with Kasundi (Mustard sauce) and fresh salad.

For the uninitiated, Mr. Jibonkrishna Saha launched Allen’s Kitchen about 132 years ago. This joint is located near Sovabazaar metro station.

The caveat – when you leave home for Allen’s, then come to Allen’s please. Mitra Café, looming just across the road, may seem a deterrent that you need to hold over.

Bon appetit!