There are Goliaths and there are Davids. It's safe to write about Goliaths and smart to talk about Davids. But what about the rest? What the Book of Samuel chose not to speak about we the gourmets can. Over the years the city has almost inertly endured the launches of hundreds of restaurants with each claiming foothold for some reason or the other in this city's protean foodscape. So, if Grand Hotel is Goliath and Mocambo is David, the likes of Aminia and Bedouin or Aliah would figure in the left-out lot.
‘Niranjan Agar’, a distinguished member of the unsung lot, is located in a snugly corner of that part of Kolkata where the ‘North’ confronts the ‘Central’ – precisely next to Girish Park Metro Station. The ambient discomfort couldn’t daunt the seeker in me as I knew well of fried beauties drawing closer to more than make up for all the peeving foibles. The oozing old-world charm of the interior is carefully preserved in marble-top tables, rickety wooden chairs and unending wooden rafters running across the ceiling holding the noisy fans that never failed to add to the surrounding richness. They all lent credence to an antiquated yet inviting charm of this fabled bistro. I wisely picked a corner table offering a nice view of the floor and prepared to order - for Fish Fry to start with…
To any diehard Bengali - unabashedly in love with ‘Fish Fry’, the sight of a raw Bhetki fillet - dipped in batter and poised to be deep fried, makes memories swarm like restless bees. That’s pure love! Niranjan Agar’s ‘Special Fish Fry’ - made of honest and fat fillets - marinated, crumb-coated and fried brown - religiously served with Kasundi (pungent mustard sauce) and fresh salad on side - celebrates that rare love every day. A bite into it flings one far from the annoying world – perfectly sets the palate for the bites to follow - prepares the teste-buds for the unknown. So never let the maiden morsel leave the mouth unannounced – appreciate its company till it agrees to go down happily giving way to the next. In short, that’s the way to feast on a ‘fishy’ masterpiece!
I had on agenda another trail to pursue that day – the one of the ‘Egg-Devil’, or the ‘Devilled Egg’ deconstructed. This particular fried delicacy, references of which are found in ancient Roman recipes, found patronizing sanctuaries and zealous admirers in the bistros of Kolkata and rather condescendingly agreed to settle for life. Niranjan Agar is one such place that pledged its unrelenting care to ‘Devilled Egg’ eventually turning the delicacy into one of its bestsellers. The imposing size of it, at first glance, appears unusually seductive - more intimidating than inviting. The use of oversized duck eggs, cut into four from top, forming a flower, to be filled with subtly sweetened minced meat and fried crumbs – a layout only revealed by a delicate crosssection [resembling a bright Impressionist masterpiece], adds both glamour and guilt in equal measure to this delicacy’s lingering aftertaste – urging me call it the Delicious Devil. So be it!
Bravely choosing to leave the safe and beaten path of trying out the natty joints and visit those that helped the city form its own gastronomic pattern, would deservedly open an unusual world to the intrepid foodlover – where gaudery yields to sheer love for food. I had my flings with the Goliaths and Davids of the food-world [including some Michelin-starred] and now I turn to the rest…to be taken on a nostalgia-joyride!
Thus I wish Niranjan Agar another thousand years of resounding success!
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