Phuchka-philia...

I see the World in a Phuchka – a round, hollow, crispy, brittle, deep-fried bread-ball made of flour - filled with 1 portion of land and 3 portions of water – with a mishmash of spiced potatoes, onions, coriander leaves and finely chopped chilies embodying the ‘Land’ delicately floating in flavoured ‘Water’ commonly known as ‘Tetul-jol' (Tamarind water). They form a perfect Earth where eco-system is never endangered!

Like the deities of Hindu pantheon, Phuchka is called by different names in different parts of India - in Bihar and surrounding states it is gupchup whereas in Haryana it is paani ke patashe; in Madhya Pradesh it is fulki but in Uttar Pradesh and Delhi people call it golgappa; in West Bengal it is adored as phuchka and in parts of Odisha as Gupchup. In Punjab the delicacy is popular as Golgappay. Bengal’s Puchka differs from its regional variants in stuffing and taste. Perhaps the use of a mix of boiled gram and mashed potatoes as the filling, perfectly complemented by the sour-and-spicy water, brings the twist in by rendering the outcome tangier and infinitely interesting. The secret of the taste is often closely and dearly preserved by the masters of the craft.

Enough of this theory!

Phuchkas never cease to take its admirers by surprise! The initial trepidation lasts until this profound bread-ball, appropriately loaded, is first put inside the mouth - and this delicious surprise stuns the Phuchka-phile unerringly in every binge, come what may. Phuchkas are traditionally served in little bowls made of Shalpata/ dried leaf. On the art of savouring Phuchka – ‘biting into a Phuchka’ is a sacrilege never to be forgiven. It should be gobbled up in one go letting the rest happen inside mouth – something supremely inscrutable! The closest one could get to verbalizing the ‘Inside’ experience is by shedding tears of joy. The popularity of Phuchka largely thrives on this obscurity! 

Now comes the epilogue! Every Phuchka-binge is drawn to a close with a ‘Phau’ - the 'incremental' Phuchka, delectably decked up with a dash of lime and graciously given away ‘on demand’ by the vendor to his discerning patrons in appreciation of loyalty – an age-old ploy ever in vogue to retain customers. Often the Phaus are sought to be tastier than regular Phuchkas. 

Kolkata abounds with great Phuchkawallas though, I maintain, the Shyambazar Town School neighbourhood hosts the crème de la crème of the lot.

After surviving all this if one is loath to leave the stall and secretly longing for a more delicious parting, it is definitely Churmur, Phuchka deconstructed, to ask for from the wish-fulfilling Phuchkawalla. With Churmur starts another episode that can be discussed later…

Now the caveat - NEVER EAT PHUCHKA FROM VENDORS WHO USE MINERAL WATER AND WEAR GLOVES – they are abominable aliens sent from other planets to steal earthly secrets!

As for Phuchkas – the nastier it is the tastier it is, period!