Gone are the days of hoary and irritable shop-owners, tucked away in dimly corners of ramshackle eateries, yelling orders or scribbling count of the sales of delicious ‘telebhaja’ [fritters] to swarming patrons. Budding entrepreneurs are young, intrepid, lettered, pragmatic, alert and unhurried. Soumya Gangopadhyay’s ambitious undertaking ‘Bhajabhuji’ is one such venture that promises yesteryears’ savoury delights draped in today’s smartness.
I enjoined agile Soumya to surprise me with his popular titbits. ‘Mutton Cutlet’ - the fabled streetfood of Kolkata, was what he offered first - a robust, juicy, crumb-coated mutton mince patty, fried deep and served with Kasundi [mustard sauce]. The inlying patty tasted both traditional and delicious unleashing the cherished flavour of minced meat laced with choicest spices. What marred the relish was an over-fried coat that as much challenged my teeth as my endurance, besides creating an illusion of staleness. That truly unimpressed!
The ‘Fish Roll’, served next, proved a winner by all measures - be it the class of fish [agreeably Bhetki] or the taste of the hidden layer – snugly dwelling between the sweet and spicy filling – ‘reportedly’ made of mashed Bhetki and prawns, and the crumbed coat, or the final crispiness. I just loved it!
'Chicken Breast Cutlet’, designedly chosen after mutton and fish to close the meaty loop, carried underneath the crispy breading a stiff, poorly marinated boneless chicken breast. Even the screaming aroma of cinnamon couldn’t salvage the savour of this enviably popular delicacy.
I am unsure if ‘Bhajabhuji’ is after 'leading' or 'following', but either way, its commercial aspiration must flourish on the bedrock of a definitive purpose and matching zeal - firmly backed by apt culinary skills and an utter distaste for mediocrity. I wish Bhajabhuji the best in all its endeavours.
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